To be in Copenhagen in December is to experience truly exhilarating tastes of Christmas. The air is heavy with the scent of caramelised almonds that are sold in red and white striped paper bags, while stalls on the harbourside at Nyhavn are dispensing glögg, mulled wine with almonds and raisins. …
Read More »From Transylvania to Santa’s village: eight of Europe’s best winter train journeys
Bernina Express: Chur, Switzerland, to Tirano, Italy Listed as a Unesco world heritage site since 2008, the Bernina line is one of the highest railways in the Alps, promising four hours of panoramic views from its glass-domed carriages: frozen lakes, rivers crashing down canyons and forests heavy with snow. Departing …
Read More »Europe’s geography ‘kind of reshaped’ as Paris-Berlin night train returns
The first night train between Berlin and Paris will depart on Monday evening after a nine-year hiatus, plugging a significant gap in Europe’s increasingly comprehensive overnight rail timetable and giving a boost to travellers looking for a realistic alternative to flying. Widely viewed as a jewel in the crown of …
Read More »The real Saltburn – and 10 more scene-stealing stately homes from films
It’s been mooted as “the most divisive film of the year”, with keen discussion among cinema-goers before they’ve even emerged from screening rooms. But one thing we can all agree on about Emerald Fennell’s Saltburn is its true star (OK, aside from Rosamund Pike): Saltburn itself. The Catton family seat …
Read More »‘The reflection of snow-tipped trees in an ice-cold lake melted hearts’: readers’ favourite winter train rides
Italy-Switzerland: lovely chocolate! I was lucky enough to ride the Bernina Express from Tirano to St Moritz. The views are incredible and the scale of the countryside is vast, with snow-topped mountains, rivers, lakes and glaciers. There are announcements in English and German throughout the journey, providing details as to …
Read More »‘You know it when you see it’: Accidentally Wes Anderson exhibition opens in London
Think of a Wes Anderson film and the muted greys and browns of a rain-soaked day in London are not the first things that spring to mind. But the UK capital is about to host the first European exhibition of photographs inspired by the vibrant aesthetic of the American film …
Read More »Tell us about your favourite winter walk – you could win a holiday voucher
It may be tempting to hide indoors in the darker months – but there’s nothing like a stomp in the great outdoors to blow away the cobwebs. So we want to know about your favourite places in the UK for an atmospheric winter stroll. Whether it’s a bracing coastal hike, …
Read More »A snowshoeing holiday in Bulgaria
‘You lift one foot and you put it down,” says Alf, my guide. “Then you lift the other foot and you put it down.” For the newbies in our group – me included – these simple instructions are reassuring. At least snowshoeing has no complex manoeuvres to master; no vertical …
Read More »Hilly horizons and shooting stars: a car-free adventure across Coniston and south Cumbria
The ripples are deep gold in the sunset light as we paddle across Coniston Water towards Wild Cat Island. Officially known as Peel Island, this is where the children camp in Arthur Ransome’s Swallows and Amazons. The canoe glides between rocks into the hidden harbour with its pebbly beach, and …
Read More »Highland refuge: Scotland’s serene, socially-conscious hideaway
As I totter across a little footbridge in the gloaming, the water below takes on a treacly sheen, slithering out to sea in the fading light. Ahead, over marshy tussocks, the outline of a ruined barracks looms out of the mist and some lights flicker on in the little red-roofed …
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