How to spend seven days in Provence

Summer in Provence is always a winner. However, if you visit in autumn, you’re rewarded with quieter streets, cafes and beaches, as well as cooler weather – ideal for exploring the region’s natural beauty. And best of all, it’s truffle season! Here’s how to make the most of an off-season week in Provence …

Day one: meander around Marseille

Begin your tour of Provence in France’s resurgent second city, Marseille, by treating yourself to lunch at one of the many hip eateries circling the Cour Julien in the vibrant Noailles neighbourhood. After that, head straight for one of the city’s many cultural attractions; there’s a new replica of the Grotte Cosquer – a cave decorated with prehistoric art – at the Villa Méditerranée, and the neighbouring Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations is always excellent. Explore the old port, which is still the heart and soul of the city, its waterfront lined with restaurants and cafes. A walk up to the pilgrimage site of Notre-Dame de la Garde is rewarded with stunning views over the city, and Cité Radieuse, designed by the legendary Le Corbusier during the reconstruction of the city following the second world war, is a must-see for fans of modernist architecture.

Day two: Roman ruins and flamingos in Arles-Camargue

Depart Marseille for Unesco-listed Arles, which is just an hour away by train. Once a mighty Roman metropolis, the city now boasts impressive ruins, including an amphitheatre and a bath house. Once you’ve toured the main sites, you could delve deeper into the region’s history at the Museum of Ancient Arles, or catch an exhibition at the Fondation Vincent Van Gogh, which celebrates the legacy of the Dutch master, who spent 15 productive months in the city just before his death in 1890. Then, take yourself back into the 21st century with a double hit of contemporary art and architecture at the spectacular Frank Gehry-designed LUMA Arles. My top tip though? Head to Camargue; this extraordinary wetland area at the mouth of the Rhône is famous for its pink flamingos and white horses, and autumn is one of the best times of year to visit.

Day three: a papal palace and Châteauneuf-du-Pape in Avignon

From Arles, a 17-minute train ride takes you to Avignon – the seat of the papacy for most of the 14th century – where you can explore its exquisitely preserved Unesco-listed historic centre. There you’ll find the stupendously grand papal palace, which is very much worth a visit; if you’re there before the end of November you can catch Amazônia, an exhibition of more than 200 images by acclaimed French-Brazilian photographer Sebastião Salgado. If you have an appetite for more art and culture, other local highlights include the Angladon Museum, with its outstanding private collection including works by Picasso, Cézanne and Modigliani, as well as the Collection Lambert for contemporary art. If you fancy a short trip out of town, head half an hour west of the city by car to take in the spectacular Pont du Gard aqueduct – a true masterpiece of Roman engineering. Alternatively, treat yourself to a wine tour of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, home to some of the most sumptuous reds in southern Rhône. Really, it would be rude not to.

Day four: hunt for truffles in Luberon

From Avignon make your way to Luberon, which you can do by bus, car or taxi. When most people think of Provence, they’re likely picturing Luberon, with its glorious rolling landscape of lavender fields, ochre hills and vineyards, studded with picture- perfect villages clinging to the hillsides. Gordes and Roussillon are the most famous villages, but make sure you also visit a few others, such as Séguret, Ménerbes – immortalised in Peter Mayle’s A year in Provence – and Venasque, with its splendid views of Mont Ventoux. By September, Luberon’s famous lavender fields will already have been harvested, but don’t despair: mid-November marks the beginning of the truffle season, so sign up for a truffle tour for a true taste of the region.

Day five: celebrate Cézanne in Aix-en-Provence

It was in Aix-en-Provence, the former Provençal capital, that the great artist Paul Cézanne was born and died. A walking route across the town links places associated with his life – such as Cézanne Studio (Atelier des Lauves) and the Terrain des Peintres, a terraced garden with beautiful views of Mont Sainte- Victoire. Then there’s the Granet Museum, with its superb collections of European painting, sculpture – and yes, more Cézanne. End your day with a performance by Ballet Preljocaj at the impressive Pavillon Noir.

Day six: explore the great outdoors in Gorges du Verdon

It takes around two hours to drive from Aix to the Gorges du Verdon. The gorge is a natural wonder – its cliffs rising to 700 metres in places before falling into the ribbon of blue that is the River Verdon. The best way to explore the area is on foot – although white water rafting and cycling are also options. Prepare to be wowed by some seriously jaw-dropping views along the Blanc Martel Trail; it’s 10 miles one way, with a shuttle bus running end-to-end until early November. After a long day hiking, there are few better places to book in for a night than the nearby spa town of Gréoux- les-Bains, famous for its restorative hot springs.

Day seven: take it easy in Toulon-Hyères

Head to Toulon for your final day. For one last dose of culture, visit Hôtel des Arts TPM, a celebration of late 20th-century art and design. Next, make your way to Biltoki Halls, a gourmet market that’s ideal for a spot of lunch and some fromage for the road. Round off your week in Provence with some time on the beach: Mourillon is the city’s main beach, otherwise Anse Méjean is a quaint spot slightly more off the beaten track. Enjoy a cocktail or two on your final night, toasting your trip at one of the city’s rooftop bars, taking in great views out to the harbour. Fly out of Toulon, or hop on a train back to Marseille, which takes just over an hour.

If you have another week in Provence …

Find out what it takes to make it in le tour by cycling up the ascent of Mont Ventoux. Or, if you’re in the mood for something a bit less demanding, hire a bike in the village of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie and take the picturesque route from there to the Plateau de Valensole, to be followed by a night of R&R in the spa town of Digne les Bains. For a change of gear, hop on the food and wine trail at La Londe-les-Maures or La Ciotat, either of which serve as a gateway to the fabulous vineyards of Provence, as well as the lush interior of la Provence verte, where you can sample the region’s famed produce and cuisine. For another cultural fix, head to Carrières de Lumières in the Alpilles for a total immersion art experience in a former slate quarry. If you’re passing back through Marseille at any point in your journey, there is a fabulous day trip to be had by getting the Côte Bleue railway from there to Martigues, Provence’s own little Venice. Alternatively, venture to Parc National des Calanques for an unforgettable hike, just a half hour bus or car ride from the centre of the city. Not to be forgotten, of course, is one of the world’s great spots for people-watching, shopping and all-round glamour – the perennial celebrity hub of Saint-Tropez. Plan your trip for October and you can make it there for the Grande Voiles big ship regatta, one of the most spectacular events in the world sailing calendar.

Discover a new side to the south of France with an off-season trip to Provence. With EasyJet flights from various UK airports, it’s never been easier to catch some autumn sun. Find out more at easyjet.com and provence-tourism.com