Stunning slopes and memorable eats: an insiders’ guide to Austria’s ski scene

Stunning slopes and memorable eats: an insiders’ guide to Austria’s ski scene

With continuous ski areas, speed tracks and snow parks, Austria’s pristine pistes makes for an action-packed holiday. From where to find the prettiest slopes and peak-perfect viewpoints, to the must-know après ski spots, we get the lowdown from locals and ski buffs on how to make the most of your Alpine holiday this winter.

Map out the most beautiful route in Ski Juwel Alpbachtal Wildschönau
The Ski Juwel resort in Tirol is a piste playground for snowgoers of all ability levels, with areas carved out for first-time skiers, families and freestylers in one of the biggest ski areas in Tirol. In this four-peaked, dual-valley wonderland between Alpbachtal and Wildschönau, you can ski 70 miles of groomed slopes.

“Start in the Alpbach ski area, then head to the Schatzberg in Wildschönau via the connecting cable car in Inneralpbach, and return to Alpbach to ski the Wurmegg run in the afternoon sun, with a fantastic view over Alpbachtal with its mountains,” says ski instructor Harald Jaquet, who has been guiding people around the area for six years, and skiing there for 29.

“Experienced skiers can take the slope to the Hornbahn 2000. From the top station, you have a fabulous view over the Karwendel mountains in the west, the Kitzbühel Alps in the south-east, the neighbouring Zillertal valley, the glaciers and the Alps bordering South Tirol.”

And the action doesn’t stop at sundown here. “Twice a week, the gondola lift in Reith is open for night skiing, from 7 to 9pm,” adds Jaquet.

Zell am See and Schmitten town at Zeller lake in winter. View from Schmittenhohe mountain.
Zell am See-Kaprun offers stunning views of Lake Zell. Photograph: Julia Lavrinenko/Alamy

Ski for stunning Alpine lake views in Zell am See-Kaprun
Zell am See-Kaprun, south of Salzburg, is one of Austria’s best winter destinations. Home to the Kitzsteinhorn glacier, the area is a haven for ski touring, with everything from routes for beginners to high altitude options for the advanced – and it’s all for the views.

“The Imbachhorn near Fusch or the Schwarzkopf is where you have a wonderful view of Austria’s highest mountain, the Grossglockner,” says local Sascha Luig. But the regular ski trails also get you to a viewpoint where you can overlook a scenic 4km [2.5 mile] alpine lake.

Kaspressknödel (bread and cheese dumplings) with amixed salad and a beer
Kaspressknödel, a traditional cheese dumpling. Photograph: Hildebrand, Julia/Getty Images/Foodcollection

“Our local mountain, the Schmittenhöhe, is a must for skiers who come to Zell am See. You have a wonderful view of the Kitzsteinhorn with its glacier, all the while, you are sitting in sunshine overlooking Lake Zell, still covered in a sea of fog.”

While skiing affords you hours of views, you can also take them in at your leisure at the “Top of Salzburg” – a viewing platform, 3,029 metres above sea level that overlooks the Kitzsteinhorn in all its snow-capped glory.

Enjoy unique dining experiences in SkiWelt Wilder Kaiser Brixental
Everyone knows those hearty refuelling stops are as prime a fixture as the renowned ski runs connecting them. One of Tirol’s largest ski areas, SkiWelt Wilder Kaiser Brixental, has unique experiences that stand out among the offering of 80 mountain huts.

“Reserve a table at Umadum Stubn in the Gipfelalm Hohe Salve, and you can eat at Austria’s highest revolving restaurant,” says Austria ski aficionado, Stuart Kenny. “It’s above 1,800 metres and does a full circle every half-hour, and you can see more than 70 3,000-metre peaks as it rotates. It’s got to be one of the most beautiful panoramas in Tirol, and the food is traditional and affordable.

“Try the kaspressknödel, traditional cheese dumplings, or the rahmspätzle, a creamy noodle dish, to fuel you for a day of skiing. And if you time your visit right, you can even ski back down while the sun sets over the mountains beyond,” he adds.

Another unique evening hangout is the mountaintop Alpeniglu village at Hochbrixen mountain station, where you can have dinner in an igloo and a nightcap in the ice bar.

Adventure on a legendary ski circuit in world-class Lech
Luxurious Lech is a prestigious, fairytale-like ski resort in Vorarlberg. A jewel in the westernmost province of the country, and with one of the best snow records in the Alps, this is the place to embark on a perfect piste and off-piste adventure through Ski Arlberg.

Since 2013, Ski Arlberg has been Austria’s largest continuous ski area – connecting Warth to St Anton am Arlberg in Tirol with 190 miles of slopes. So, where do you begin in this snow haven of seven ski areas? Pro skier and freeride world champion, Lorraine Huber, knows the best spot.

Angerer-Alm Stube 07 (c) Christine Bauer
Enjoy Tirolean hospitality at Angerer Alm, the highest farm in the area

“The White Ring ski circuit is a must during your holiday in Lech Zürs am Arlberg. This legendary sightseeing tour of easy- to medium-difficulty groomers connects Lech with Zürs, Zug and Oberlech, over around 22 km [14 miles] and 5,500 vertical metres,” she says.

“It’s hard to resist stopping for a drink or bite to eat at the Balmalp (the top station of the new Zugerberg gondola), it boasts some of the best views you’ll find.”

Stay at a traditional Tirolean farmhouse in St Johann in Tirol
The renowned ski resort of Kitzbühel undoubtedly takes centre stage in east Tirol – but what if you are looking for a cosier, off-the-beaten-track spot to get away from it all?

The quieter slopes in St Johann in Tirol, on the other side of the Kitzbüheler Horn, still dazzle – but experiencing true Tirolean hospitality is what sets it apart. Mela Hipp, author of guidebook Tirol für alle Jahreszeiten (Tirol for all Seasons) knows the perfect place.

“Angerer Alm is a cosy hideaway at 1,300 metres, in the middle of the ski resort,” she says. “The highest farm in the area now surprises guests with a well-curated wine cellar, charming rooms, a beautiful parlour inside and a panoramic sun terrace outside. But what really makes a stay at Angerer Alm so special is the warm welcome of the host, Annemarie Foidl.”

From magical Christmas markets to world-class skiing, epic new year celebrations to spectacular spas, fall in love with everything winter has to offer, with an unforgettable trip to Austria. Plan your perfect trip at austria.info/en/winter

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