‘Going hungry’: Garment workers in Bangladesh say wages barely cover needs | Workers’ Rights News
Dhaka, Bangladesh — Laili Begum, a 37-year-old garment worker, no longer has the means to keep her two children in school. As a sewing operator at Virtual Bottoms Limited near Dhaka, she earns about 15,000 taka (approximately $121) a month, with potential increases to 18,000–20,000 taka ($145–$161) when working overtime.
Recently, Begum’s 15-year-old daughter and 12-year-old son dropped out of school due to financial constraints. “We can barely afford one proper meal a day,” she said, recounting a day when their only food was puffed rice and a snack. “Yesterday was the same. This is how we survive now.” She added, “My son is so thin that you can count every rib in his chest. What else can I do?”
Begum is one of approximately four million garment workers in Bangladesh, roughly half of whom are women. Many of these workers are currently protesting for better wages. Bangladesh is the world’s second-largest apparel exporter, trailing only China, and supplies major global fashion brands like H&M, Zara, Levi Strauss, Walmart, and Primark. The country’s ready-made garment sector accounts for more than 80 percent of its export earnings, reaching $39 billion in the last financial year.
Despite this economic significance, garment workers claim their wages no longer meet basic living costs.
Economic Context
Bangladesh, a Muslim-majority South Asian nation of 170 million, has some of the lowest garment worker wages globally. In contrast, Cambodia mandates a minimum wage of $210 per month, Vietnam’s ranges from $140 to $210, and wages in China’s Guangdong province vary from $286 to $378.
Rising inflation and a sharp increase in the cost of living have contributed to significant unrest. On Saturday, workers began striking and demonstrating, demanding a minimum wage of 30,000 taka ($241), more than double the current wage of 12,500 taka ($102).
On Sunday, Begum participated in a protest in the Ashulia industrial area, where police used tear gas and stun grenades to disperse protesters, resulting in multiple arrests. The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association reported that operations at 529 factories were disrupted, affecting nearly a million workers.
In response to the unrest, the government announced the formation of a six-member wage board to review workers’ demands. However, the protests continued for a third consecutive day on Monday, with workers blocking highways and clashing with police in northern Dhaka’s Gazipur area.
“The government only makes promises,” Begum stated. “They haven’t told us when wages will increase and by how much.”
Living Conditions and Employment Challenges
Rasel Khan, a 30-year-old garment worker, echoed Begum’s sentiments, noting that his monthly earnings, including overtime, are insufficient to support his family, which consists of his mother, younger brother, wife, and child. He has resorted to accumulating debt to meet rising costs. “It’s impossible to support a family on this income,” he said, citing a debt of about 100,000 taka ($805).
The last wage revision in the garment sector occurred in December 2023, and since then, inflation has soared, with rates reaching 8.34 percent in September. Basic necessities, particularly food, have seen much higher price increases.
Begum reveals her struggles in more detail, explaining that she pays 3,500 taka ($28) for rent on a single room shared with her mother and children. In a sign of desperation, she has to burn discarded materials to cook due to an inability to afford a gas cylinder.
Economist Zahid Hussain remarked that chronic inflation over the last five years has eroded the purchasing power of low-paid workers significantly. “When real income falls, they have to cut their daily living standards,” he said.
The government has recently amended labor laws, reducing the wage review cycle from five years to three, with the current period ending in December. Prime Minister Tarique Rahman has convened an emergency meeting with top officials, while the Labor Minister urged workers to return to work as the wage board prepares to begin its review.
Industry Dynamics
The timing of these negotiations is particularly challenging for the garment industry, as manufacturers grapple with the demands for better wages alongside rising production costs and increasing global competition. Sheikh Hossain Muhammad Mustafiz, an official with the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, highlighted the need for wages that ensure decent living standards while maintaining competitiveness in the market.
“Workers deserve wages that support a decent standard of living. However, without fair purchasing prices from international brands, significant wage increases could put pressure on factories and threaten employment,” he stated, urging global brands to share the responsibility of protecting workers’ livelihoods.
Despite rising manufacturing costs, economist Hussain pointed out that competitors like Vietnam and China face similar pressures. “The question is not whether wages should be adjusted, but by how much,” he urged, calling for prompt negotiations involving all stakeholders.
For Begum, the uncertainty surrounding wage negotiations means continued hardship for her family as they struggle to afford basic necessities. “Wages must rise, but food prices must also come down,” she concluded.
